After discussing the changes made in their shops with the folks at The Sports Car Authority, one recommendation stuck out in my mind . . . . converting the air box and filter to a K&N conical filtercharger set up.  After trying to change the air filter the first time, I was convinced I never wanted to try that again.  The engine compartment of the fuel injected Spider has no wasted space and very little space for hands, tools, etc.  So, I embarked on a course that would be both frustrating and ultimately satisfying.  Feel free to e-mail me at faulkner@hesenergy.net with questions, coments, etc.

The fuel injected Spider breather box as viewed from above.  I could only reach the rear clips on the fender side with a long-handled screw driver.  Motivation for this project was two fold: 1) I never wanted to have to deal with this breather box and wrestling it out for another air filter change and 2) I wanted the increased performance of the K&N filter.

Step 1 is to remove the top of the breather box.  Loosening the clamp that attaches the rubber snorkel to the air flow meter (AFM) and the 4 clips on the breather box should release it.

Once the AFM and top of the box are removed, you will find the bottom of the box held in place by 3 nuts on bolts from a small thin plate beneath it.  These are 10 mm nuts, remove them and work the air box from the engine compartment.

The top of the box, with AFM in place looks like a minature oil pan turned upside down!  The 2 liter is forced to breathe through that tiny opening on the bottom of the air box with the small snorkel a feeble attempt to pull cool air in from beneath the car. 

My first challenge and Step 2 is to find a "flange" to fit the face of the AFM onto which a K&N can be fitted.  Having gathered from the Fiat Forum that a flange from a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe would fit, I embarked on a 3 month search for one.  A good Fiat Friend from the Forum offered a spare he had. Unfortunately, it did not fit.  But it did give me something to take to local wrecking yards (and ultimately machine shops) to show.  This part does not have a number in the Ford listing I saw and Turbo Coupe support groups were of little help.  The part pictured here does not match up with the face of the AFM, although it's close! 

Now the engine compartment of your fuel injected Fiat Spider should look like this:

After a few more attempts to identify and locate a suitable flange for the AFM, I turned to a local machine shop and asked for their help.  Having the non-fitting part was a great help in that I could say, "I want one of these to fit this," instead of having to sketch it or conjure up in their minds what I was wanting . . . . the results are very nice, I think you will agree.

Once this part was secured the rest was easy, well, almost easy!  I attached my flange to the AFM and test fit the K&N.  This is K&N filter # 3590.    I paid approximately $35 plus tax for the angled conical filter.   There are several 2.75 inch opening filters.  This one measues 7 inches from tip to throat and could not be a fraction longer. 

Step 3 was to assure the AFM wasn't dangling and putting excess stress on the air hose to the intake. 

I fashioned a support bracket from some heavy pipe strapping.  I bent one end at a 90 degree angle and slipped it over one of the air box studs.  After cutting to length and shaping the end with my trusty Dremel tool, I painted it flat black, then secured it to the air box stud with original lock washer and nut.  The shaped end attached to the lower inside corner of my flange and supports the weight of the AFM and K&N. 

This looks very cool and did a good job supporting the weight of the AFM and filter, but left some question as to it's stability and providing enough clearance between the filter nose and radiator support.

In order to preserve this clearance and keep the radiator support from rubbing a hole in the rubber nose of the filter, I took the remainder of my support material and fashioned another support; this time one end was attached to the upper outside corner of the flange, the other behind the bolt holding the ignition coil in place.  This added support makes the AFM almost rigid in place.  It added so much more stability to the assembly than I had ever imagined. 

Step 4 is simply to slip the K&N in place and tighten the clamp.  Looks cool doesn't it?

Now, from the Driver's side . . . .

And then there's the finishing touch . . . . that K&N sticker!